I hope that you all had a pleaseseant and restful Easter break! I have been a bit quiet of late as I have been updating my website….so to all my WordPress.com followers…you will now be directed to my new site at www.beautypulselondon.com !! It should now be easier to navigate, to locate older posts and posts on specific topics that are interest to you.
I just wanted to thank you all for your support over these past few months; for your ‘likes’, your comments, your guest posts and your follows. Please do re-follow my blog to keep with my latest musings!
Have a great day and keep smiling!
A few posts ago I was enthusing about the newest foundation launches with shades for dark skin!
I will reviewing some of these new offerings over the course of the next few weeks, letting you know my thoughts based upon 3 criteria:
- Colour Match – is it detectable?
- Coverage and Wear – how does it perform during the day?
- Marketing Support – many woman of colour bemoan the fact that they are underrepresented in the marketing and advertising of beauty products, and as a result conclude that these products are ‘not for them’. I will assess the marketing support for each product to see how well each brand represents the markets that they are targeting.
I am a loyal MAC Studio Fix user and I have been wearing shade NW45 for years. It is a good match for me…just so you know what I am benchmarking the trial foundations against.
…Teint Idole Utra 24H by Lancôme
As I mentioned in my previous post, Skin Deep, Lancôme offered customers a 7 day trial of their newest foundation. From the adverts in the press I suspected that I would be shade 13 (Sienne)…and what do you know…I was right!
Interestingly, it was back in 2005 that Lancôme identified a need to extend its foundation colour palette. Employees of the USA laboratories noticed they were not all able to find the right shade among those available on the market. Too red, not dark enough, overly ash, not vibrant enough, too orangey…
Thus L’Oreal (the parent company Lancôme belongs to) created what was dubbed the “Women of Color” association, and these women decided to blend a shade range perfectly tailored to their specific needs with shades for every skin tone.
Lancôme soon committed to support “Women of Color” with the launch of an international study. Using colorimetric measurements, 15,000 complexion colour points were observed on around 1,000 women. This international study gave rise to the shades unveiled in the Teint Idole Ultra 24H range!
The new shades suitable for a darker skin tone include:
Shades 10 (Praline), 11 (Muscade), 12 (Ambre), 13 (Sienne), 14 (Brownie) range from sandy to more intense tones and these shades been developed for every mixed-race, South-American, Afro-American, Indian-American, Antillean or North-African complexion. Shade 15 (Acajou), the darkest shade is designed for ebony-toned skin.
So that was the science…but what do I think??
Although Lancôme professes to have a shade for all, with only 6 shades for women with a darker skin tone, I am not 100% convinced.
Sienne is a rich toffee colour with deep yellow undertones.
It did blend well to match my skin tone…however upon application to my face (with my fabulous BECCA foundation brush), it was slightly to dark…but I know that shade 12 would be to light, so unfortunately it was a mismatch for me.
Colour Match Score: 6/10
Coverage and Wear
The foundation provided a medium coverage, and was easy to apply. If you do have any imperfections that require extra coverage (as I do!) you may need to use a concealer too. The foundation has a subtle floral fragrance, which was surprising – but it was pleasant to inhale the fragrance as I applied the makeup.
It dries to give a velvety matte finish. My skin tends to get shiny throughout the day, thus I was concerned that the liquid formulation would begin to slide, but I found that it wore well although I did need a little powder to take down the shine. All in all I was very impressed!
Coverage and Wear score: 8/10
Lancôme has backed the launch of Teint Idole 24H with a heavyweight campaign which has been highly visible in store, outdoor, online and in the press.
Lancôme’s global HQ has done a fantastic job in communicating that this range is indeed for all women…and I was commenting to a friend just last week (yes…I am always talking about beauty!!), that I believe that this is the first major Lancôme campaign that DOES NOT feature a Caucasian woman!! It is fronted by Tunisian beauty, Hanaa Ben Abdesslem and the stunning Arenis Sosa.
A fabulous campaign!
Marketing Support score: 10/10
So there you have it! All in all, if you can find your colour match, I would highly recommend this foundation!
This is why I love the beauty industry…so creative!
As they say…you are what you eat!
Everybody knows that Ladurée is famous for their delicious macaroons but now the brand is about to launch a make-upline. When you enter a store of Ladurée, everything looks very chic, sweet, retro and oh so french. And the make-upline will give you the exact same feeling. Here are the first images:
I can’t believe that October is nearly coming to an end… time is certainly flying.
I couldn’t let the month end without writing a post in celebration of Black History Month – which is in October here on the British Isles!
There are so many inspirational people of colour that I could mention – the free newspaper ‘The Metro’, compiled a very comprehensive list as part of a nationwide poll, however I would like to celebrate some of the men and women who have contributed to the global hair and beauty industry – providing jobs and careers for thousands, enriching the lives of millions of women (and men) and making the founders of the following companies very rich indeed!!
The hair and beauty industry catering to the needs of black men and women is a flourishing sector. The US black haircare market is worth $185 million, up 4% versus the 2010 sales value, according to a recent Mintel report, and although a primarily Caucasian standard of beauty dominated the popular press and the department store counters for much of the last century – the black hair and beauty industry is not a recent phenomenon….
….Madam C.J. Walker (December 23, 1867 – May 25, 1919), born Sarah Breedlove, was an African-American businesswoman, hair care entrepreneur and philanthropist who made her fortune by developing and marketing a hugely successful line of beauty and hair products for black women under the company she founded in 1910 – the Madam C.J. Walker Manufacturing Company. She is also credited for developing the ‘hot comb’ (the forerunner of your GHDs!). According to the Guinness Book of Records, Madame Walker was the first woman to become a millionaire by her own achievements.
Other Americans who have transformed the tresses of black women worldwide include:
Drs. Joe and Eunice Dudley – Dudley Beauty Corp
Drs. Joe and Eunice Dudley probably didn’t have any idea that their small family owned operation would become one of the longest standing black-owned hair care companies when they were mixing products in their kitchen 43 years ago.
Story has it that while the husband and wife team were creating formulas, their two oldest children would help package the products at night. The rest, as they say, is history. Their oldest daughter, Ursula Dudley Oglesby, runs the North Carolina based company as President. The pioneering couple were also featured in Chris Rock’s enlightening and enjoyable 1999 docu-tainment film, Good Hair.
Fred Luster Sr. – Luster Products Inc.
When you think of Luster, you think of Luster’s Pink Oil Moisturizer, the ubiquitous hair lotion that was a staple of bathroom cabinets in black households throughout the 80’s and 90’s. The company behind the iconic brand was founded by the late Fred Luster Snr, in 1957 and is now headed by his children Jory Luster, Fred Luster II and Sonja Luster-Munis. The Chicago-based company is one of the largest black owned companies in the African-American hair care market.
Last year the ‘Pink’ line of haircare products was launched in Boots.
Lisa Price – Carol’s Daughter
Lisa Price is an entrepreneur whose 15 year old venture was started by happenstance. The products were born through an experiment with fragrances and moisturisers, intended to be given as crafted gifts to friends and family. Price named the products after her mother, Carol Price. As word of these homemade products quickly spread, Price was in business. In 1999, she opened the doors to Carol’s Daughter’s first brick-and-mortar retail location in her native Brooklyn, NY. Since then, the brand has matured forcefully with major media endorsements and high profile business partnerships – investors include Jay-Z , Will Smith and Jada Pinkett-Smith. Price’s home-grown experiment has grown into one of the most popular ethnic beauty brands in the world.
Loving the Skin you’re In
No ode to the black hair and beauty industry would be complete without a mention of the venerable cosmetics brand Fashion Fair.
Fashion Fair was created for women of colour by the late John H. Johnson, publisher of the famous Ebony and Jet magazines. As a pioneering businessman, Johnson took the risk that most major cosmetic companies refused to take by entering the untapped market of makeup for women with deeper skin tones.
Johnson ( and his wife Eunice W. Johnson) produced the Capsule Collection, a mail-order package in 1969. Based on the overwhelming response, it was clear there was a demand for a Black cosmetics line.
Fashion Fair Cosmetics was born in 1973 . Ten years after the company opened its first U.S. counter, the company expanded its global reach with the first European initiative in London. In conjunction with the Ebony Fashion Fair, Fashion Fair cosmetics took Great Britain by storm by hosting a signature luncheon highlighting an array of products and extravagant fashions from the show. The brand recently appointed the (oh so fine!) celebrity make-up artist Sam Fine as its Creative Make-up Director.
So, what about us Brits?
It is SO exciting to see a number of Black British entrepreneurs taking the beauty industry storm – such as:
Michael Boadi – Boadicea The Victorious and Illuminum fragrances
Boadicea The Victorious was launched in 2009 by British former celebrity hairstylist Michael Boadi. He previously styled the stars including Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, before launching his first line of fragrances, Boadicea The Victorious exclusively at Selfridges.
The Illuminum brand followed in 2007 and shot to fame earlier this year when it was reported that the Duchess of Cambridge (yes Queen Kate!) wore one of his fragrances on her big day! The Daily Mail and fragrance bloggers soon revealed that the bride wore White Gardenia Petals. Every one of the 50ml bottles in stock was sold within moments of the news breaking, and an extensive waiting list accumulated soon after. Price – a very reasonable £70 for 50 ml
Pat McGrath – Celebrity Make Up Artist
Hailing from Northampton, Pat is one of the top make-up artists in the world. She currently reigns supreme as the Global Cosmetics Creative Design Director for Procter and Gamble – the conglomerate behind some of the world’s most glamorous and powerful make up brand names- such as Max Factor, CoverGirl, SK-II and the more recently launched Dolce and Gabanna range. Constantly in demand by top celebrities such as Madonna, Oprah and Scarlett Johansson, Pat McGrath’s editorial work with top photographers like Steven Meisel for Italian and American Vogue continually breaks new ground.
Daniel Vauud – the future of Fragrance creation
St Lucian born Daniel Vaudd is an inspirational young man. A certified Cosmetic Scientist, Daniel trained under evaluative perfumer John Ayres, the Director of the UK Fragrance Foundation, who taught him about the clarity and structure of perfume and how to refine his abilities. Soon, he was asked to become the Global Colour Cosmetic Researcher for a major multinational, developing new and individual colours, as well as fragrances, for their cosmetic ranges.
A chance encounter with the world’s sole ‘ Professeur de parfum’, Roja Dove, led Dove to ask Daniel to be his personal researcher on the project ‘Essence of Perfume’ by Roja Dove. With his instincts and talents and his ever-broadening abilities and experience, Daniel soon began receiving requests to craft bespoke perfumes himself.
In 2010 Daniel launched his own line of fragrance – The House of Daniel Vaudd.
Just a few names of the movers and shakers in the UK beauty industry… I am sure I will be celebrating their talent for many years to come.